Traveling with My Toothbrush

It's been a delight to sew these Traveling Catch-All Cases this week!  The FREE pattern is by Sue O'Very at https://sueoverydesigns.com/useful-and-easy-traveling-zipper-catch-all-free-pattern-and-video/.  The YouTube video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rto0bRBHlrg&t.  I made a couple few changes putting mine together and will tell you about them here.

I couldn't figure out what the pattern piece labeled "Top" was for - then I actually watched the video and saw that it's part of the 'License Plate' patchwork on the Outer piece.  So if you aren't using License Plate fabric, you don't need to cut that piece out. 

Change 1 - Adding Vinyl:  Because the ones I made will be Toothbrush Travel Cases, instead of using Interfacing on the Lining, I put Iron-On Vinyl on the inside to keep the case from getting damp from a wet toothbrush.  The vinyl wrinkles badly when the bag is turned, so I carefully warmed it up with a warm iron just before turning - be sure to use the paper covering or the iron will mess it up! 

Change 2 - Topstitching:  I topstitched across the top and bottom of the Pocket and across the fold in the Base piece.  I also topstitched along the zipper edge after it was installed and the Case was turned.

Change 3 - The Pocket:  I moved the Pocket piece up away from the bottom seam by about 1/2", which makes that bottom edge less bulky.  That means cutting the Pocket Interfacing 1/4" shorter, that is 6" x 3 1/2" instead of 6" x 3 3/4".  I also moved it in about 1/8" on the sides to make more room in each slot and divided the Pocket into 3 parts instead of 4. 

Change 4 - The Zipper and the Binding:  I used one side of a 24" zipper pulled apart, for a continuous zip instead of cutting down a 16" zipper.  The trick is that the smaller end of the Zipper Pull has to be worked on (later, AFTER the Outer and Lining pieces have been stitched together), which can be a real pain and takes patience.  It's better if the zipper isn't 'by-the-yard' as the zipper tape without teeth at the ends is easier to work, but it's possible to use either (give yourself an extra 1/2" or so of zipper if you use zippers-by-the-yard).  I stitched the Zipper to the Outside piece (using a scant 1/4" seam) first, then I pinked the curves at the top of the Case. 

I added the Binding to the bottom while the piece was still flat, leaving about 1" on each of the Binding ends free (I pinned the excess out of the way later when I sewed the Lining to the Outside, and finished sewing it after the Lining and Outside were stitched).

Change 5 - The Base:  I stitched the Base to the Lining before putting the Outside and Lining together.  First, when I topstitched the fold on the Base piece, I kept going and basted all the way around the Base so it would act like one piece and reduce the chance of slippage.  The fewer layers I have to keep track of, the easier it is to sew.  Then I matched up the center marks on the curve of the base and the bottom of the Lining and stitched the base to the Lining - basting the curve in place first helps.  

Change 6 - Putting the Pieces Together:  I put the Outer and Lining pieces together, stitched around the zipper, pinked the Lining at the top of the Case, heated the vinyl, turned, pressed again (using the vinyl paper all the time), and topstitched around the zipper.  Then I worked on the zipper pull, which I declared hopeless every time just before it slid on, then basted the Base layers together.  I finished stitching the Binding on and put a few locking stitches in the top of the Zipper so it wouldn't accidentally pull apart when the Case is zipped, and the Traveling Toothbrush Case was FINISHED! 

I've enjoyed making these a LOT!  They take about 4 hours from start to finish.  I've made four of them and want to make at least one more.  They're great gifts!

What Say We Make A Little Crossbody Bag?

This project pattern is for your personal use only.  No electronic or printed reproduction is permitted without the prior written consent of me, Marty Campbell.

MY ON-THE-GO CROSSBODY BAG
by Marty Campbell

Approximately 5½”W x 7½”H, this bag is sized to hold your phone, a credit card, driver’s license and some cash, you’ll love this sturdy lightweight alternative to a big carry-everything Purse! It’s perfect for a quick trip to the store or a jog around the park.

This is a Fat Quarter & Scrap Friendly Project

SUPPLIES NEEDED

Fabric:

□ OUTER BAG – 8”x17” 

□ BAG LINING – 8”x17” 

□ OUTER FLAP – 6”x6”

□ INNER FLAP – 6”X6”

□ OUTSIDE ZIP POCKET LINING – 6”x10” 

□ KEY POCKET– 4”x7” 

□ INSIDE POCKET– 6”x14”

Pellon® 808 Craft-Fuse®  

□ 1 Yard

Rigid Single-Side Fusible Interfacing 

 1¼”x5¼”– Fairfield^TM Stiffen, Peltex or similar product

Other Supplies:

□ 6" or Longer Nylon Coil Zipper (a Purse Zipper is 

recommended for its wider tape and longer pull)

□ (36”– 42”) ½” Wide Heavy Nylon Webbing (for the Strap)

□ Two ½” D-Rings or Square Rings

□ Two ½” Lobster Claw Swivel Snaps (optional)

□ 1 Closer: Magnet, Button, Snap, or Velcro^TM

Helpful Tools

□ Erasable Pen or Chalk to mark fabric

□ Fabric Glue or Wonder Tape 

□ Pinking Shears

□ Applique Pins

Recommended Sewing Machine Presser Feet

□ Zipper Foot

□ Stitch-in-the-Ditch or Edge Foot (for topstitching)

□ Regular/Zig-Zag Foot

                                                                               ©2018 Marty Campbell

                                                                                                                                                 All Rights Reserved

Seams & Stitch Length

Use ¼” seams unless otherwise noted and backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.  Use a short (1.8 or 2) stitch length for everything except the topstitching (2.5 or 3).  

NOTE:  There are Labels on the last page that you can use to keep track of the cut pieces, and there are boxes at the beginning of each step in the pattern that you can check off to help keep your place. 

Pieces to CUT

With so many possible combinations of fabrics, the pieces to cut are identified by the part of the Bag where they will be used instead of by fabric.  NOTE:  You will need to cut two pieces of fabric for the Flap – one for the outside Flap and one for the underside of the Flap.  They can be cut from the Main Fabric, Contrasting Fabric or Lining Fabric – Mix or Match.

Fabric:

□ Cut (1) OUTER BAG – 7”x16” (if using directional fabric cut (2) 7”x8¼” instead)

□ Cut (1) BAG LINING – 6¾”x15¾” (if using directional fabric cut (2) 6¾”x8¼”)

□ Cut (2) FLAP – 6”x6” (cut the Flap using the pattern after it’s been fused)

□ Cut (1) OUTSIDE ZIP POCKET LINING – 6”x10” 

□ Cut (1) KEY POCKET– 4”x6½” (sized for a single key – make larger for other uses)

□ Cut (1) INSIDE POCKET– 5½”x12”

Pellon® 808 Craft-Fuse®:  NOTE:  The Outside Zip Pocket is not interfaced, so no Pellon® is cut for it.

□ Cut (1) Outer Bag – 7”x16” (do NOT cut this in half for directional fabric)

□ Cut (1) Bag Lining – 6¾”x15¾” (do NOT cut this in half for directional fabric)

□ Cut (2) Flap – 6”x6” 

□ Cut (1) Key Pocket – 3½”x3” 

□ Cut (1) Inside Pocket – 5”x5¾”

□ Cut (3) Reinforcement Pieces for Closer – 2”x2” (cut this from the Pellon® only)

Rigid Single-Side Fusible Interfacing – 1¼”x5¼”

Other Supplies

□ 6" Zipper (a longer zipper is easier to use and it will be trimmed after being sewn)

□ 36” to 42” Heavy Nylon Webbing ½” Wide, or other ½” Strap Material [Tip: You can fold 1” wide webbing in half lengthwise and sew along each edge to make a ½” Wide Strap.]

□ (2) ½” D-Rings or Square Rings

□ (2) ½” Lobster Claw Swivel Snaps (optional)

□ Closer: Magnet, Button, Snap, or Velcro^TM

Helpful Tools

□ Erasable Pen or Chalk to mark fabric

□ Elmer’s Glue or Wonder Tape 

□ Pinking Shears

□ Applique Pins

Recommended Sewing Machine Presser Feet

□ Zipper Foot

□ Stitch-in-the-Ditch or Edge Foot (for topstitching)

□ Regular Foot

Let’s get started!

Get a couple pieces ready for fusing with the interfacing. 

1. Directional Design Fabric Bag Pieces (If you aren't using directional fabric, skip to step #2.)

□ Place the pieces right sides together with the design going in the same direction and stitch a ¼” seam across the bottom so the design on both sides will be going up.  Press the seam open.

2.    Inside Pockets

□ Align the short ends, right sides together, and stitch across.  Move the seam to about ½ to ¾” from the bottom of the Pocket, press the seam open, and stitch a ¼” seam along one of the sides, turn right side out, poke out the corners and press the Pocket flat.  This is a non-traditional method of sewing pockets but will make neater corners without the need to clip them before turning.  (The open side will be closed when the pocket is sewn to the lining.)

Fuse the fabric to the Pellon®

3. Fuse the Pellon® to the Fabric Pieces (see the manufacturer’s instructions for product directions).  Make sure that the shiny (glue) side of the Pellon® is against the Fabric so the glue doesn’t get on your iron (experience speaking).  Let the fused pieces cool and then check the fabric side for bubbles (unstuck areas).  Re-press any bubbles or loose areas.

□ Inside Pockets:  Slip the Pellon® pieces into the Pockets with the glue (shiny) side towards the outside of the Pocket. [Tip: Fusing the Pellon® to the outside of the pocket will keep the fabric from puckering when it's topstitched in place.]  There should be about ¼” of fabric beyond the Pellon® on the open side.  After you press the Pellon® in place with a hot iron, fold in the raw edges at the open side and press.  You’ll close the open sides when you topstitch the Pockets in place.  Set the Pockets aside for now.  

□ 6” square Flap pieces:  Fuse the Pellon® to the 6” squares before cutting the Flap shape so you don’t have to fiddle with the Pellon® and Flap pieces to get them to line up.  [Tip: Orient Directional Design Fabric so that when the Flap is open, the design will be right side up.]

□ Outer Bag and Bag Lining pieces:  Fuse the Pellon® to the Outer and Lining pieces.

NOTE: The Outside Zipper Pocket Lining doesn’t use Pellon®.  

Pellon® Reinforcement Pieces:  These 2" pieces give the fabric extra strength against tugging so the pieces will hold up under the stress of opening the bag many times. 

□ Flap:  Whatever you use to keep your Bag closed (magnet, snap or Velcro^TM) will be considerably smaller than the 2" squares, so these don't have to be perfect.  Use the pattern piece to trim the corners of two of the squares (or just clip two of the corners so they won’t get caught in your ¼” seam) and use the Closer dots on the Flap Pattern for placement (poke a hole in the pattern and mark the Pellon® under it).  Fuse one square to each Flap piece.

□ Bag Front:  On the Pellon® side of the Bag, measure 3" down from the top and 3½” from the side and fuse the other Pellon® reinforcement square over that spot.

4. Cut-Outs for the Boxed Bottom 

□ Find the center of the long side of the Outer Bag and Bag Lining pieces.  Line up the Box Bottom Cut-Out Guide with the center of the Outer Bag and Bag Lining pieces, mark the cut-outs and cut.

5. Outside Zipper Pocket

□ Let's draw a box for the zipper: Lay the Outside Zipper Pocket Lining face down, and mark the top center (on the short side).  Draw a line from side to side 1” down from the top of the fabric starting and ending ¾” from the sides; the line should measure 4½”.  Draw another 4½” line ½” below the first one and join the ends to form a box as shown in the diagram on the left below.  This box should be centered side to side.

□ Place the Outer Bag fabric right side up and draw a line 1½” down from the top of what will be the back of the Bag using an erasable pen or chalk.  Mark the center of this line and place the top of the Pocket fabric on the line, right sides together, aligning the center marks as shown in the center diagram above.

□ Hold or pin in place and sew on the drawn box, start sewing at the top, about ½” away from the corner. [Tip: Starting and stopping right at a corner weakens the stitching, which may come loose from many tugs.] 

□ Carefully cut down the center of the box, stopping about ½” from each end, then cut to within a couple threads of the stitching in the corners as shown by the red lines in the diagram above, being careful not to cut into the stitching.   [Tip: The closer you cut to the corner, the neater your opening will be.]

□ Push the Pocket fabric through the slit to the back side of the Outer Bag and work it as flat as possible.  Finger-press at first to get the fabric in position.  Press the fabric back from the opening at the stitching.  Work from both sides, but mainly make the Outside Bag side the smoothest.  There will be some puckering on the Pocket side and some of the Pocket fabric will peek through the hole to the outside.  When the fabric is in place, press the opening with a hot iron so it holds its shape. [Tip: If the line wants to go wonky, you can press the seams over a piece of cardstock or other flat straight edge.] 

6. Installing the Zipper

□ Attach the Zipper Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Lay the Zipper face up on the ironing board with the zipper pull to the left.  If your Zipper has metal stops, make sure they aren’t under your sew-line, including the topstitching areas.  An extra-long zipper is helpful in giving you plenty of room to put the stops out of the way.  Any extra zipper tape will be cut away after the Pocket is all sewn.

□ Put a line of glue (or Wonder Tape) along each outside edge of the Zipper tape and place the Bag, Pocket side down, over the Zipper, centering it along the opening you just made.  Hold it in place for a couple minutes until the glue dries, or you can use the iron to speed up the process but be careful not to melt the zipper teeth or knock the Zipper out of place.

        

□ When the glue is dry, topstitch the Zipper in place ⅛” from the opening, starting just past the top left corner and sewing across the top towards the right.  [Tip: Make it a habit to start near the top left corner as it will help hold the zipper steady should you need to move the zipper pull to finish the stitching.]  Be aware of where the zipper pull is while you stitch so it doesn’t get tangled up with the needle.  Also watch where any zipper stops are so you don’t try to stitch over them.

□ Tie a knot in the threads at the end and bury them behind in the fabric between the zipper and the pocket lining.

□ Attach the Regular Sewing Machine Presser Foot to the sewing machine.

□ Sew around a second time, ⅛” from the first line of stitching.  [Tip: You could keep the Zipper Foot on the machine for the second row of topstitching, but it tends to slip around because it is so close to the edge of the Zipper and makes a sloppy line, so it’s much better to switch feet even though the Zipper Foot is used in the next step.]  The double stitching gives the Pocket a nice finish and holds the Zipper securely.

7. Finishing the Pocket

□ Attach the Zipper Presser Foot to the sewing machine.

□ Turn the Bag over so the pocket side is facing up.  Fold the Pocket Lining fabric in half so the bottom is aligned with the top.  Finger-press the fold and pin the top edge of just the Pocket Lining (I use a couple Wonder Clips), without catching the Outer Bag fabric in the pins.  Turn the Bag over so that the Bag fabric is face up and the top edge of the Bag is toward you.   

         

□ Fold the Bag fabric back on the right side to expose the edge of the Pocket Lining fabric and hold it to keep the Bag fabric out of the way while you sew the pocket on that side (shown above with the scissors holding the fabric back as I couldn’t get my hand out of the way for the camera).  Sew a 3/8” seam going from the fold of the Pocket to the top.  The fabric will be wonky at the zipper – just sew your line straight over this area, sewing slowly over the zipper ends so you don’t break a needle.
       
□ With the sewing machine needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric so you can sew across the top of the Pocket.  Let go of the side fabric so it will unfold, and then fold back the top of the Bag fabric to expose the top of the Pocket – remove the pins as you come to them and sew across the top of the Pocket.

□ Again, with the sewing machine needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric for the last seam.  Let go of the top Bag fabric so it will unfold, and fold the left side of the Bag fabric out of the way, exposing and sewing the Pocket fabric on the last side.

□ Trim the ends of the Zipper even with the Pocket.  The Zipper Pocket is done.

8. Putting the Flap Together

□ Attach the Regular Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Using the pattern for the Flap, mark the Closer placement on the Pellon® on the underside piece of the Flap (that is, the Flap side that will attach to the Bag Body).

□ Attach the top half of the Closer you’re using:
Magnet: On the right side of the fabric, place the washer over the dot and mark for the prongs.  Using a seam ripper, pierce the prong lines and carefully make a tiny slit.  Push the male part of the magnet through the fabric, slide the washer on and bend the prongs outward to secure the magnet.
Velcro^TM: Using about 1” square of the hook side of the Velcro^TM, center it over the dot and stitch around the edge twice.  Start in the middle of the square instead of the corner for extra strength.
Snap: Using your snap tool, attach the male part of the snap at the dot.
           
□ Put the Flap pieces right sides together and, with a ¼” seam, sew around the Flap, leaving the straight end open for turning.

□ Trim the curved edge (use pinking shears if you have them) to about ⅛” from the stitch line to ease the curve.

□ Turn the Flap right sides out, smooth the curves and press, being mindful to avoid ironing over the Closer.

□ Attach the Topstitch Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Topstitch around the Flap.  The Flap is done.

9. Assembling the Outer Bag

□ Attach the Regular Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Center the Flap at the top of the Outer Bag (the end with the Zipper Pocket), place right sides together, and machine baste in place, stitching about ⅛” from the edge.
           

□ If you’re using Velcro^TM, you’ll need to sew the loop side on now.  Draw a line on the fabric side of the Outer Bag 2¼” from the top, on the end without the Zip Pocket.  Place the Velcro^TM at the center of the line and stitch around the Velcro^TM twice.  [Tip: Put the second part of the Magnet or Snap at Step #15 so you can match the placement to the piece on the Flap.]

□ Align the ends of the Outer Bag together and put in a couple pins or clips along the top to hold the pieces evenly together.  Sew the side seams using a ¼” seam – don’t sew the cut-out areas yet.

□ Finger press the side seams open, then use the iron to press them open.

□ Pinch the cut-out area together to box the bottom, measure a line about 1⅛” long across the end, and stitch back and forth on the line a couple times.  Place a clip on the edge to keep the line straight.  [Tip:  If there’s a seam across the bottom of the Bag, you can shine a flashlight inside and see that the seams align.]

Now that the Bag Body has been sewn together, the sewing space will be tight.  Be patient.  You can always stop stitching and realign the pieces.

10. Getting the Strap Connectors Ready (½” Nylon Webbing)

□ Cut two 2” pieces of ½” Nylon Webbing and singe the ends to prevent fraying.  Thread each of these through a D-Ring.

□ Take one of the Webbing pieces and fold it in half, then slide the ends so that they’re adjacent but not overlapping, like a “V” with the D-Ring in the middle.  Tack the sides that are touching so they stay together.

□ Center the Webbing on the right side of the Bag Body so that one end is on each side of the side seam.  Being careful to catch the whole end of the webbing in the stitching, machine baste these in place, sewing ⅛” from the top edge.  Repeat for the other Strap Connector. 

11. Attaching the Inside Pockets to the Bag Lining

□ Topstitch across the tops of the Pockets.

□ Mark the center of the Pockets on the topstitched edge.

□ Draw a line 2” from the top of one end of the Bag Lining and mark the center.  Draw a line 1¼” from the top of the other end of the Bag Lining.

□ Place the topstitched edge of the smaller of the Pockets on the 2” line, matching the center marks and topstitch in place – backstitch a couple times at the beginning and end of the stitching for strength.  Use a stiletto if necessary to keep the pocket ends neatly tucked in and to prevent puckers while you stitch.  If the open ends are extra troublesome, you can stitch them closed by hand, or use glue or Wonder Tape to secure them before you stitch.

□ Repeat with the larger Pocket at the other end of the Bag Lining.

The Inside Pockets are done.

12. Finishing the Bag Lining

Sewing the Bag Lining together is just like sewing the Outer Bag together, except for leaving an opening in one side.

□ Align the ends of the Bag Lining, right sides together, and put a couple pins or clips at the top to keep the alignment.

□ Using a ¼” seam, sew the side seam on the right leaving about 4” open in the middle for turning.  Be sure to backstitch at the opening as there will be a lot of stress on this seam when turning the Bag.

□ Sew the left side seam, then finger press and iron the side seams open.

□ Pinch the cut-out area together to box the bottom, measure and mark a line 1⅛” across, and sew back and forth a couple times.

13.   Putting the Bag Together

It’s easier to sew around the Bag from the inside.  You’ll have to ease your way around, holding the fabric out of the way as you sew.

□ Attach the Zipper Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Turn the Bag Lining right side out.  The Outer Bag Body should be wrong side out.  Decide which Inside Pocket will be towards the back of the Bag and insert the Bag Lining into the Outer Bag, right sides together, lining up the side seams.  The Flap and Strap Connectors will be tucked down between the Outer Bag and Lining. The D-Rings slide around, so make sure they are well out of needle range.

□ Pin the top edges so that they’re even.  [Tip: Using short applique pins will help keep the edges together without getting tangled in the sewing machine or your fingers.]  You should be able to make the top edges even without distorting the lining.  If the Lining is too far above the Outer Bag, you can trim it down a tiny bit.  [Tip:  The Lining is smaller than the Outer Bag so there shouldn’t be any gaps when you sew them together, but if a gap starts to form, you can always stop sewing and turn the unit so that the Outer Bag is on the inside.]

□ Sew around the top edge using a ¼” seam.  Make sure that the D-rings are out of the way when you come to them.  Backstitch across the Strap Connectors when you come to them so they'll be strong.
       

□ While the bottom of the Bag is exposed, measure the very bottom and trim the Stiffen to that measurement.  It will be inserted and fused before the opening in the lining is closed (not now).

                                 
□ Turn the Bag right sides out through the 4” opening that you left in the side of the Lining.

□ Make sure that everything lines up and looks good (it will be easier to fix problems now than to have to take stitches out later) then turn the Bag so that the Lining is on the outside – this is so that you can topstitch from the inside.  Work the seam around the top so that the stitching is at the edge and there are no puckers, and press, press it good.

□ Attach the Stitch-in-the-Ditch Presser Foot to your sewing machine.

□ Place the Bag so that the Flap is on the sewing table.  Rotate the Flap forward a little so that the topstitching will start on the front part of the Bag just before the Strap Connectors, then you’ll stitch across the Flap and on around.  After you’ve stitched across the Flap, turn it back out of the way while the rest of the topstitching is done.

□ Finish the topstitching by taking the top thread to the lining side, tie a double knot, thread the ends through a needle and bury the threads between the Outer Bag and Lining.  This works really well if your ending stitch meets the beginning stitch.  Pull the Lining out of the Outer Bag – this is a good time to run the iron over the Lining.

14. Stiffen the Bottom

□ Slip the Stiffen into the Bag through the opening in the Lining, and work it to the bottom of the Bag, making sure that the glue side is towards the Outer Bottom.  Carefully fuse it in place with a hot iron, pressing from the bottom of the Bag about 20 seconds at a time, folding the Bag first one way and then the other.  It will make a nice crease along the bottom.

15.   Attaching the Magnet or Snap & Closing the Lining

□ Fold the Flap over and mark where the female side of the Magnet or Snap will go.  Work through the opening in the Lining and attach the Magnet or Snap.

           

□ The opening in the Lining can now be hand sewn or stitched by machine and the Lining put into the Bag.  

16.   Finishing the Strap

□ Cut a piece of ½” Webbing between 38” and 42” long, depending on how low you want your Bag to hang off your shoulder.  Singe the ends of the Webbing to prevent fraying and slip them through a Lobster Swivel Snap on each end, or through the D-Rings in the Strap Connectors so that the end of the Strap goes to the inside.  Fold under about 1” and use a tight zig-zag stitch to secure the end in place.  Zig-zag across in a couple areas, about ½” apart.

Your Bag is finished.

This is a good time to add some bling, fancy buttons, or other fun embellishments to your Bag.

This project and pattern is for your personal use only.  No electronic or printed
reproduction is permitted without the prior written consent of Marty Campbell.

Copyright © 2018 Marty Campbell
All rights reserved.
MyOnTheGoBag@gmail.com

PATTERNS

Main Fabric		Contrasting Fabric		Lining Fabric
OUTER BAG		BAG LINING		FLAP
OUTSIDE ZIP POCKET		INSIDE POCKET(S)		CLOSURE REINFORCEMENTS

Check the measurements of the printed patterns to ensure the right size.